Wednesday, August 5, 2009

I hate Taiwan's weather.

So there's this typhoon making a beeline for Taipei.

As a result, I will not going to Penghu for what would have been four days of glorious relaxation in the sun with a huge group of my favorite Taiwanese family and friends.

They've rescheduled the trip to begin next Tuesday, but I immediately discarded the idea of trying to somehow tag along, because that would involve 1) un-postponing a 4-person group presentation; 2) taking the professor-administered, listening-intensive final test another time; and 3) missing 4 days of class.

I'm pretty devastated, so I don't really want to discuss it further. I'll make the final, "I Could Be In Penghu Right Now" post of my Snapshots of Taiwan series on Friday, since I'll definitely have the time.

~A very disappointed Ethan

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Snapshots of Taipei, Part 2

The fun continues.


1. I'll start with some of my favorite shots from that cosplay convention I mentioned last time:











Things to know, most of which actually aren't reflected by the images (photographer fail):
a. The female:male ratio of the participants who dressed up was very, very high. Why? Girls, say Jun Xiang and his friend Yu Zhong, like to dress up, and have their pictures taken (more on that later). This is true, but I'd also add that in my opinion at least some of them definitely took the opportunity to break out of the Taiwanese dress code for the day. For while it's okay for a girl to bare as much leg as she wants (short shorts are currently quite popular; I give that fashion trend five thumbs up), tops are a different story. Arms are okay, but anything else is very much not. For example, in the picture of me and the two girls, their belly shirts are very much not kosher and would almost never be seen on the street. I'd say that as few as, say, 1 in every 500 or 1000 girls bucks this trend, and even then not flauntingly. I'm sure it has something to do with the general Taiwanese body type (petite :-p), but there are enough exceptions to make me pretty sure that it's a sign of a slightly more conservative, slightly more moderate youth culture than exists in America. Along the same vein, if you go to bars or clubs in the university area you'll notice a much higher expat:national ratio than normal - and this despite the fact that one can legally drink at age 18 here.

b. Another thing the photos don't reflect: the swarms of photographers. Nearly all of them were male, and judging by the ridiculous equipment, most of them were also either professional photographers or wealthy amateur enthusiasts. Some were probably also taking photos for papers, but by and large I think that they were for collections, blogs, etc. Subjects would by and large be willing to be photographed for several minutes at a time in the sun, oftentimes striking whatever poses the photographers asked for. They were there, after all, to look good.

Despite some things I had read on Wikipedia about problems with creepy male cosplay photographers in some places, the photography had a very Taiwanese air to it. Most photographers would thank the subject when they were done, sometimes adding a little bow for good measure, and move out of the way to let other photographers in; even more telling, when a character was done posing and being photographed, he or she would simply say so and relax or walk away, and everyone would immediately stop taking pictures.

It was fun to watch trends form and dissipate, as particular people/characters became "popular," and at the height of their two minutes of fame were barraged by 20 photographers. I actually started two of those trends, which was kind of cool. I suspect it was because people who weren't available for photos beforehand were willing to start posing again when I asked them; being "the foreigner" has its perks ;-)


2. And now for something completely different: the MRT.

a. Come try the new Neihu Line! Why? Because a popular Taiwanese singer thinks it's awesome, and that guy in the background is so excited that he's even started break-dancing.





b. Hopefully you won't be among the unlucky few...



In early July, Taipei City opened a new set of Metro stations, the "Neihu line," which expands metro coverage to about an additional 40% of the city to the northeast and provides a key connection to the main domestic airport in the north. (With 2,000,000 people, Taipei's a sizeable town, folks. I've only seen part of it.) Still, the line is opening some 13 years (!) behind schedule, and it has had issues: on the first day of operations, a car's main brakes failed (emergency brakes worked fine, so nobody was hurt), and a few weeks ago the entire line - the Neihu portion and the pre-existing stops to the south - was shut down, and 9,000 people were stranded for a few hours due to a technical problem. Fares are currently discounted about 25% to encourage people to continue traveling on the line, and the one time I did (Neihu also opens up the IMAX theater, which is key!), folks seemed to be taking advantage of it.

Fun fact: The Taipei government recently threatened to sue a prominent tabloid (they're very, very popular here) for $100,000,000 NTD (about $3,000,000 USD) over an article about reasons for the problems with the Neihu line. According to ICRT, the English station here, "The magazine fired back, calling the city government 'absurd' and 'evil.'" I'll be interested to see what comes of that...


3. The 228 Memorial Peace Park

(Featuring: A pagoda...



...and a statue of Confucius. And me.)




On February 27, 1947, resentment was building against the KMT, the political party which was then ruling both mainland China and Taiwan. The KMT had just "moved in" very recently, when Japan - which had controlled the island since winning it from China [thanks, Dad] in the late 1800s - re-ceded Taiwan upon losing World War II in 1945. Although many of the locals were descendants of mainlanders themselves, they had basically been been taken over by a fairly repressive regime with an absentee ruler. (Chang Kai-Shek was at that point in China, fighting Mao Zedong's forces; he would lose and flee to Taiwan two years later.) The trouble came to a head, when in the course of enforcing new cigarette laws, two KMT policemen in Taipei deprived an older street vendor of her cigarettes and some of her earnings. The altercation was apparently prolonged, and ended up drawing an angry crowd, which turned violent when one of the officers hit the old woman in the head with the butt of his pistol. The policemen fled, the crowd chasing them, but one of them fired behind him as he ran, killing a young man.

The next day, February 28 (hence "228"), a much larger crowd of protestors gathered, calling for a trial for the officers. To make a long story short, the day ended with soldiers firing into the unarmed crowd and the declaration of a curfew and martial law.

It wasn't until the 1990s, when Taipei became fully democratic and free discussion was allowed, that this park - which has existed for about 100 years - was renamed to honor the dead.

For me, this kind of highlights how young Taiwan's democracy really is. The government has done terrible things on the very streets of Taipei - and plenty of people no doubt remember it all happening. Correspondingly, civil liberties still aren't as strong as what you'd see in America; for example, one thing I've been hearing about is that the most recent president, Chen Shui Bian, has been in jail for something like a year now on corruption charges without seeing any offer of bail or his day in court. But what's even more interesting is that the KMT - whose policy, as I mentioned, involves eventual reunification with China - is currently the ruling party. I feel like any party with such a terrible (and recent) history - and with a policy that most Taiwanese abhor - can only retake power from the opposition party (the DPP) if the latter is incredibly weak. I'm not here long enough, nor do I speak Chinese well enough, to even bother trying to really understand the politics of the island, but at this point I've come to know just enough for it to really interest me.

P.S. There's much more to the park and it's quite beautiful, but I wasn't really in the mood for pictures. Another time.


4. Father's Day at the Zhangs':

Budding actors:




And a special treat...:


[Apologies for the poor sound quality and the clear lack of any sort of skill or common sense on the part of the cameraman.]

The Zhangs have reminded me to be wary about overgeneralizing my experiences in Taipei. For one thing, as I think I mentioned earlier, Xuan Xuan (the low-paid buxiban English teaching assistant) told me that she though the Zhangs were special and uncommonly friendly. And when I went to their house on Tuesday for their early father's day celebration (we'll be at Penghu for the actual date - 8/8, which can be read as "ba ba" ["dad/dy"] ), I was impressed with the idea that this was probably more the case than I had thought. Each of the four siblings invited several friends and encouraged them all to mingle; the snack food/dinner/cake was plentiful and seemed very half-American/half-Chinese; and the socializing was followed by several ridiculous skits prepared over the course of about a week, a public reading of reasons why the four of them loved their father, and then a series organized games. Afterwards, when I was complimenting him on the skits and how friendly the whole atmosphere was, I asked Jun Xiang if their family was different than most in that way, and he uncharacteristically said, "Yes, I think so." Don't get me wrong - I still think Taiwanese people are fantastically nice - but I'm appreciating the Zhangs more and getting the idea that maybe not everyone here would be that amazingly welcoming.

Also, while I've tried to be careful to restrict my commentary to "Taipei" (as opposed to "Taiwan"), and to "Taipei's youth" when appropriate, I'm guessing there have been a few times when I've failed to make that second distinction; I'm also guessing that even some of my "Taipei" generalizations are inaccurate. While I hear that the "poorer" areas nearby are restricted to some of the suburbs (still on the metro line, though), and not the city itself, I do have to remember that I have only lived and traveled through the university districts and the municipal district. There's a lot more of Taipei to see, and maybe I shouldn't be so glib about my generalizations. It's such a temptation, but recognizing it just makes me want to learn more Chinese, so that I can come back and really get an idea of what life is like here.




To end with, a quick recap on my daily life of late:

1. Chinese:

Right now, could be better.
- For one thing, we recently had a friendly but heart-to-heart talk with the teacher who directs the way the main course ("Modern Conversation," both "large" and individual classes) is taught for his students. Boin, a classmate and a Columbia grad, and I both thought that the new characters were fine, but that we should be focusing on a few sentence patterns/phrases/pieces of grammar a day, because we're trying to remember a dozen or so and really not assimilating any of them. The Yale system was great in that one was called upon to memorize, verbatim, a short dialogue every night, and a medium-sized one every week; by the end of it, you really owned those patterns and phrases if you did them right. Here, not so much. I mean, I still can't get across some pretty basic ideas in a gramatically correct way - which I find very, very frustrating, all the more so because a lot of the time I know it's something we've gone over. Briefly. But the professor is only partly changing focus; the bigger change seems to be that we're going slower, which is not what we wanted. Either way, I guess there's less than two weeks of classes left, so it won't have a massive impact either way :-/
- For another, Katie (who's nominally at the same level as me) was telling me a few days ago when we went to get our passports renewed that she finds repeating her one-on-one teacher's sentences to be the easiest thing in the world. By contrast, I have tons of trouble doing that; unless I hear, process, and understand every word in the sentence, I'll always make a mistake or sometimes even forget what I'm supposed to be saying midway through. It's very frustrating.
- Finally, fear is slowly creeping into my heart about placing into third-year Chinese next year. I have a strong feeling that second semester second year would be no good, as I'd be a year behind my classmates and I'm told that second year is slow. I'd also feel like I've wasted a summer of study, which I don't think I would take well at all. Those traditional characters and the comparative lack of intensity (especially as regards the ol' language pledge) might prove disastrous.

2. Health:

Could also be better. I've basically been tired and/or aching every day so far, and even when I get in bed in time for an eight-hour sleep (which is a luxury compared to my Yale days, and especially to my high school years), I don't sleep well and wake up aching. I actually went to the TaiDa hospital on Monday (don't worry; it's just kinda the thing to do here when the health center is closed), and they decided I had a virus and gave me three nights' worth of pills to take for the aching. Maybe it worked, because I took them at dinner and the worst spells have been during the afternoon, but on Monday I may also take them up on their offer to come back if it's not better soon. I kind of want to stick it out until this Thursday (Penghu island!!!), and see if a change of sleeping venue will do the trick, but that will also only work if I'm actually not sick; if I am and I don't get better, I might just be miserable throughout Penghu, which would be... miserable.

Oh, and this whole story brings me to another fun fact: I'm not on Taiwanese health insurance, national or otherwise, so I was charged in full for the hospital bill. Am I going to bother trying to convince the Yale Health Plan that there was really a pressing need for me going to the hospital?

No.

Why not? My total bill, including the pills: $468 NTD, or slightly under $15 USD.

And yet, Taiwan is said to have some of the best healthcare in the world. (They're particularly well-known for eye, liver, and cosmetic operations.) Those who say the U.S. system doesn't need reform, take note.



Next time, expect Part 3, which will mostly focus on a photographic expedition into the middle-class Taiwanese home.


Until then, stay summery.

~Ethan

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Snapshots of Taipei, Part 1

I went on that bike trip today! It was great, but I'm definitely out of shape like it's nobody's business: in a little over 3 hours of riding I probably covered about 25 miles, which I figure is alright considering the fact that I had a backpack with a lot of water and haven't really biked (or done any other exercise, for that matter) in nine months. I wish I could have spent more time on the road, but I got a late start (kept forgetting things at the house; bike rental issues) and had to return earlier than I had thought to be in time for Harry Potter.

(Speaking of which, my Harry Potter verdict: excellent. Possibly my favorite so far, though I'm still a fan of #3 and I can't remember how well I liked #4. The 3D part at the beginning is also epic, if you're considering going that route.)

Back on topic. The bike rental was great, and cheap ($7 for "5 hours"? I can do that.), and I got my first real taste of how glorious it is to ride a modern machine; in the past, I had been riding Dad's old 1984 Huffy road bike, which came complete with gear problems and ten speeds, operated by metal levers in the center space between the two handlebars. Although I brought my camera, I only really took pictures before I got started; I decided that worrying about good photos and stopping to take them would take away from my ride. So instead, today I'm bringing you a lot of explanation of All Things Taiwanese (TM), generally by way of the other photos I've been taking over the past week or so. Enjoy.



1. Obama hits the night market:




Ridiculous, right? But everyone, of course, knows his name. I get the sense that Taiwan collectively looks up to America, in a way. The U.S. is seen as Taiwan's protector; the Taiwan Relations Act allows the U.S. to immediately intervene in the case of an attack on Taiwan, and is seen by most as a defense guarantee (though it only really mandates that the President report such an attack to Congress, says the Brookings Institute). The U.S. is also one of Taiwan's biggest trading partners, for example supplying it with a third of its beef and selling it arms (over China's strong protests). Then there is, of course, the democratic connection, especially in the face of Communist China. Little things also count: Taiwan has a man on the Yankees (surnamed Wang), and most Taiwanese seem to know about him. And finally, while the U.S. does not officially recognize Taiwan as a nation (China has a policy of essentially not dealing with countries that do, which is why some of the mere 23 countries that recognize Taiwan are obscure Pacific islands I've never heard of), it does give Taiwan quasi-nation status in official jargon and diplomatic treatment, running the American Institute in Taiwan ("AIT"; essentially an embassy) and hosting in return the Taiwan Economic and Cultural Office ("TECO"; the same) in New York. Visas are granted by both sides.

2. (A photo in words): One day a few weeks ago, I was walking down a side street to the MRT (metro) station after lunch; when I reached the main road, a divided 4- or 6-lane affair, I noticed that there was literally no traffic. "Wow," I thought to myself (being me), "That's odd. The Taiwanese must really take their lunch hour seriously." Glancing at the blinking red pedestrian light, I crossed, not noticing the policeman on the other side of the street until he blew his whistle at me. "Damn," I thought, "I guess I wasn't supposed to cross at that light." I said I was sorry, and he told me something that involved "don't walk." Assuming he was talking about the crosswalk, when he turned away I headed back up the road in the opposite direction. About 30 seconds later, another whistle, from another cop farther up the road. This time I got the message: "You can't walk." ("Here? Or here?") "No, you can't walk. Rest here for a while." ("How long?") ("Half an hour.") Not sure if I was being penalized, I did as I was told, loitering near a shop doorway and finally taking a better look around. I now noticed that there were also no people on the street, and that others were doing the same as I. Half an hour later, at 2:00 PM, horns sounded from the tops of stoplights, and the flurry of activity that is Taipei traffic began once again.

It turned out that this was an air raid drill. People were supposed to get off the streets, probably both for safety reasons and to make the area look less populated. It's a holdover from times when the threat of Chinese attack was more real, when U.S. backing was nonexistent. In 1949, Chiang Kai-Shek's Nationalists were routed from the mainland by Mao Zedong's Communists, and since then Mao's China has claimed Taiwan as its own, first bombarding Taiwan with cannons and then continually threatening it with attack. That threat of attack is not voiced by China today, but Taiwanese still feel it very faintly in the back of their minds. The Communist government's policy has always been and continues to be that Taiwan is an inseparable part of China, and a Taiwanese spokeswoman pointed out in a recent visit to the United States that Taiwan cannot help but feel threatened when the mainland has 13,000 missiles aimed at the island. Taiwan and China share a military border, at which Taiwan's military practices regularly; Taiwan has long held tightly to its outlying islands (besides the main island, it has a handful of decent-sized outliers) as buffers against potential Chinese attack. Most Taiwanese believe that the status quo will most likely continue, though, despite posturing on all sides. And they like that idea - enough that the current president, whose party's platform supports "eventual" reunification with China, had to promise not to pursue that reunification, in order to be a viable candidate for election.


3. Guess the connection: a university, a sign with a laptop on it, and people dressed in fantasy/anime&manga costumes.


Well, it turns out that the costumed people (and the horse) have been hired to make a still ad proclaiming that all freshmen who enroll will have a chance [I don't know what %] to win a laptop computer.

After recent high school graduates take the national university entrance exams and receive their scores back, they can list up to their top 100 department choices (from as many different public universities as they want) on a form, which they then send to the government education ministry. Most people choose public schools, because they're insanely cheap - 台大/TaiDa, Taiwan's one-uni Ivy League, costs around $1700 USD per semester for Taiwanese - and generally better than the private universities. Clearly, the college being advertised is not one of the better ones...

The visual method of advertisement is really interesting too, though, isn't it? I don't know that a horse and some folks in fantasy costumes would ever be well-received in the U.S. when put on a billboard in connection with a university. While still definitely in the minority, the percentage of people who are into fantasy and role-playing here in Taiwan is definitely much greater than that in America, where after a certain age it tends to be seen as absolutely ridiculous. You can see this simply in the sheer amount of media around - on the metro TVs, on billboards, etc - advertising MMORPGs (massively multiplayer online roleplaying games). And, even (to us) stranger: When I first showed a small version of the above photo to Jun Xiang, he said, in a very matter-of-fact tone of voice, "Oh, it's probably cosplay." Cosplay, for those of ye who don't know (probably the majority, is a "performance activity" in which people (usually young) dress up as a character from their favorite fantasy or sci-fi series (usually fantasy here, particularly manga/anime) and either act out scenes, roleplay their character, or just kind of walk around and look crazy/attractive/frightening/awesome/hilarious/a combination of all of the above.

In fact (drum roll please) there is a weekend cosplay convention going on right now at TaiDa, right between my apartment and the ICLP classrooms. And on second thought, I think that's where I'm going to go instead of doing homework; the library's sweltering, I can't find the air conditioning, and I'm meeting my language exchange partner soon anyway. And after all, how many opportunities will I get back home to take pictures with awesomely dressed Asians? That's just... not my crowd, so much.

Look for Snapshots, Part 2, next week. Hopefully I can also include some of David's or my own cosplay convention photos for your enjoyment.

~Ethan

Thursday, July 23, 2009

quickie

I've been feeling unnaturally tired for the past few days; for most of the day my entire body will feel like I've been wrestling all night in my sleep, and my lower back goes beyond tired to hurting some. Even got a solid 8 hours of sleep last night because it's really quite uncomfortable, but if it's just because I'm tossing and turning or something, I guess there's not much I can do about it.

I've decided to go on an adventure to see if that solves the problem. (And also because... I really want to go on an adventure.) Tomorrow, barring illness, bike shop issues, or bad morning weather, I'll be renting a bike and traveling around from about 8:00AM to 2:00 PM. What I really want to do is bike along the river and then just hit some side roads to the south of the city, where according to Google Maps I can find hills and less civilization. I'd go earlier if I could, but the rental place doesn't open at 8:00; the 2:00 return time is to 1) beat the classic Taiwan afternoon thundershowers (knock on wood), and 2) get back in time to see HARRY POTTER. Today I've got some language exchange/dinner plans with Jun Xiang & co today, so I'll be blogging tomorrow; don't expect much new information, but hopefully some great pictures will be coming your way.

~Ethan

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

bah

Today's news: The mold is back. I missed the eclipse. I'm up late again. I found myself unable to express myself given 50 minutes to respond to the "[your] life in Taiwan" prompt and 10 sentence patterns to use. Did I mention that the mold is back?

Remember that excellent Livejournal feature? Current mood: discontent.

Better post on Friday, I promise.